A City That Wrote History

During my visit to the ruins of the city of Asseria, I was deeply impressed by the richness of history and culture dating back to ancient Rome. The enduring walls and every single stone told stories of a long-lost civilization.

The monumental city gate, dedicated to Emperor Trajan in 113 AD, along with the irregularly shaped fortified layout and the carefully restored ashlar walls, left a lasting impression. Archaeological excavations revealed a Roman forum and basilica—testimonies to the wealth and importance of this city.

One striking detail was the absence of mortar in the wall construction, highlighting the extraordinary craftsmanship of the time. The stones were fitted with such precision that not even a sheet of paper could be slipped between them!

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Outside the city walls lies a significant number of Liburnian funerary monuments known as cipus (see photo on the right). All were made locally, indicating a long-standing tradition of stone carving in the Benkovac region. These monuments are notably cylindrical, and yes—somewhat phallic in appearance. A large collection of cipuses is on display at the nearby Benkovac Museum. Each cipus ends with a skull adorned with scales, and on its surface is an inscription panel containing information about the deceased: name, social rank, public offices, family, magical formulas, curses, blessings, and more. At the top of the cipus, there is typically a stylized pine cone. This symbol, found in cultures across the world, represents eternal youth and immortality. In Roman religious tradition, it was widely used, particularly in Anatolian cults, and often appears on Roman gravestones. It was believed to ward off evil and preserve the body from decay.

Watch Out for the Road!

The journey to Asseria from BUQEZ was an adventure in itself. GPS navigation tends to pick the shortest path, which isn’t always the best option. After about a 30-minute drive from BUQEZ toward the village of Vrana and crossing the highway, you’ll reach Benkovac. From there, navigation led us onto a rough, unpaved road off Route 56.

This road is littered with large rocks and can be problematic for cars that aren’t equipped for off-road driving.

I strongly recommend the following route instead:

1. Benkovac

2. Buković

3. Podgrad

4. Asseria

Not only will this route reduce your stress, but it will also allow you to enjoy the scenic atmosphere of the surrounding villages. It may be a little longer, but believe me—it’s worth it. You’ll save time and have a smoother, more pleasant drive.

In summary, the visit to Asseria was a truly memorable journey through time. It offered far more than just ancient ruins—it inspired deep admiration for the technical skill and artistic sensibility of a once-great civilization.